Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Leavenworth: Sun

Sunset

This was my last spring trip to Levy. It was spent mostly in the sun adsorbing the rays till the sun reapers on the west side...

Slingblade V6 below. The low start should go. Begin w/ left hand on crimp in the 'crack' and right hand on a sloper, then work into slingblade. Would love to see the sit start go!

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Little Si

A little blurry but this the Derik sport climbing Reptiles!
Ah, sport climbing season. Yesterday, Derik, Kevin, Andrew and myself all made it out to little si. After a warm up on Psycho Wussy it was a group consesus that today wasn't going to be a sending day. After we all got scared on lead I work my way up techno and Andrew did all the moves on TR! I feel that I'm lacking the enduro I had from last year but overall I feel good. Hopefully after a couple sessions I'll get my endurance back and start putting some work in...

Monday, June 13, 2011

Rat Cave

On Friday, lisa and I headed out to one of Portland's cooler sport climbing areas. The rat cave has around two dozen steep, confusing, and fun lines. What it lacks in rock quality it makes up for in the 30 foot roof! We first tried The Maverik 5.12b for the warm up. I managed to onsight the 12a part and went for the boulder problem extension and was just able to hang on! Then after a 1/2 hour break to let the flash pump go away Lisa sent the first part 2nd go. Next was a steep 13b which has hard to decipher from the guide. As it turns out I projected up a dumb link up. After some better hunting, I took my way up the correct line which is a pinch fest utilizing a kneebar. The route never lets up and is going to be a good one to project for awhile. Here are some pics...
The 12a follows the R-L crack but the cave routes look amazing!Close ups

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Cap Forest: Roadside Boulder

The right arete, will soon be freed!
Evil neck high ferns!
The awesome left arete! Mini Saigon starts on the apex and goes up, around V1. Mr. Gadget starts on the left facing sloper and reaches left ot the other arete. Surpsingly more techinal than it looks, around V3. The Saigon arete goes right instead of left for around V3/4, again techinal and core intensive. Thanks to Taylor and Chase fro helping to brush
Below, boulder playin hide an' seek with us!
After doin' some hiking we stumbled upon this beauty. It now has a handful of lines on it. also, we are slowly crossing off hillsides in Capitol Forest, there are only a couple left.
Rat cave photos coming soon!

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Capitol Forest Bouldering Vid!

Fixed my quality issue. Here's a little vid to demonstrate what pictures and rumors can't...